I was introduced to Ikko by some Japanese friends from the area who were taking an equally calculated risk eating here for the first time. Reservations are not required, but they’re certainly helpful as the staff can combine tables for larger groups.

Perhaps Ikko can best be described as a modern izakaya and sushi bar. I wouldn’t go so far as to call it fusion as plenty of menu items don’t typically appeal to the western palate such as marinated octopus suckers or dried salted fish bone appetizers. This is made even more evident by the high prevalence of Japanese clientele.

The regular menu is supplemented by a daily specials attachment, sometimes as thick as 3 or 4 additional pages. While the static menu items are excellent, the truly intriguing dishes are found on the simple printed addition. At the same time, some of these are unfortunately sold out even early in the evening.

Each menu item is presented as a dainty work of art making up a comestible masterpiece.

A fresh salad is a great way to start off an evening of alcohol and high protein intake. The seared tuna salad hits the spot with delicate fish slices surrounding the base of a mound of baby mixed greens soaked in a light sesame soy dressing.

A number of carpaccios fill the menu and the salmon with shark fin option is an excellent mix of soft peach flesh wrapped around thin clear strands of firm shark fin. The pieces are drizzled with the detectably sour mauve plum sauce.

Even a slab of fish head looks deliciously presented as our chopsticks tear into the soft cheek of a broiled yellowtail accented with the soft tang of ginger sauce.

Another small white plate arrives with a number of piping hot potbellied black pork sausages. These stir fried meats are slippery with oil, their skin giving way to juicy goodness. An adornment of spicy brown mustard gives them some heat with a few green Japanese peppers for garnishment.

A modest accumulation of diced sword fish steak is complemented by a trio of entirely small dabs of dipping sauces. Of the wasabi, white horseradish, and yuzu pepper, the last garners my full attention, a citrusy treat that leaves my mouth with the tingling of black pepper.

The deep fried mochi rice cake turns out to be more interesting on paper than in our mouths. The dense bland cake overwhelms the taste of everything else and with only bits of tuna and kimchi mixed in, an oddly watery natto mix is all that’s left to pair it.

A spicy squid saute adds some zest with colorful piles of carrot and green pepper slices topped with squid and golden tobiko. A thinned down variation of spicy mayo bonds the piece together, unfortunately flavoring everything it touches.

And while an intimate evening could be spent at one of Ikko’s few tables, the sushi bar holds its own with a solid assortment of standard and daily specials. In fact, this is where I prefer to spend my time and dining allowance. No wasabi or soy bottles are available, it’s just the chef, your plate, and a pile of white ginger.

One might say this is what sets Ikko apart from other izakaya style restaurants and defies its categorization. Every nigiri sushi is crafted with care and attention to detail. Here’s a listing of my latest encounters:

Uni: Long pieces of uni draped over soft rice with a dabble of soy. This is uniquely served without the standard seaweed wrapper. The texture is great, but the soy and too much wasabi drowned out the flavor.

Kanpachi: Slippery and firm with a pink hue, doused with soy. A mild and meaty fish.

Sayori: This beautiful firm white fish was left with remnants of silver striping and was almost crunchy to the taste with freshly grated ginger on top

Chinu: A meaty semi-firm white fish with bright red violet and light pink throughout. This was topped with the slightest amount of pink rock salt and dried chili flakes.

Aji: Dark red rainbowy fish with shredded ginger on top. Slippery and soft with great texture.

Tobiuo: This mostly red flying fish was very soft and supple, also with fresh ginger on top

Chidai: Otherwise known as crimson sea bream, shiny scales provide instant texture from the tender flesh. Decorated with white rock salt and a noticeable amount of wasabi underneath.

Unagi: An interesting taste on a familiar order, these pieces come out blazing hot on a wad of loosely packed rice. Small tender pieces with crunchy outer edges and very minimal sauce. Sprinkled with pepper.

Masago: Another heavily soy sauce doused nigiri which detracted from the flavor of the eggs. Extremely fresh crispy nori wrapper!

Toro: These thick cuts of market price fish showed deep cuts in the surface and would have been much more enjoyable had they not been unexpectedly seared with a hand torch to a rare condition.

I would probably like Ikko more if the seating space wasn’t so cramped or the fact that I’m out $100 or more on every visit. I’ve also noticed that the sushi tends to have too much soy sauce and far too much wasabi on nearly every piece which robs the true flavors of the fish, especially those with strong tastes. Still, Ikko offers a pleasing array of ever changing menu and sushi items. With a reservation, it would be an excellent date restaurant.

Ikko Restaurant

21008 Hawthorne Blvd

Torrance, CA 90503